Madrid

Few makeover projects have been handled with such a degree of architectural audacity as the recent transformation of a disused electric station in Madrid’s Las Huertas district into a cultural center La Caixa Forum - Madrid.

Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron not only gutted the building, removing most of its interiors and changing its shape and size by conspicuously adding a layer of several floors, they also literally lifted it from its foundation, giving the whole structure a tense “suspended” look.

The resulting space now houses a cultural center with its own exhibition space, a large auditorium, a bookstore and a top-floor café...

Read the rest of: "Caixa Forum - Madrid"»

One of the most frequently photographed sights in Madrid that's nevertheless completely ignored in the city guidebooks is the Tío Pepe sign in Puerta del Sol. Given the number of tourists taking pictures in front of the sign (with many opting for a silly trick where they pretend to be "holding" the giant bottle behind them... very creative, guys, but it's been done before) and consequently, given the sign's status as the city's de facto second emblem (at least in tourists' minds... the first still being the bear, of course), it seems almost unbelievable that no guidebook provides at least a cursory look at the sign's story. Allow me to take the onerous task upon myself..

Read the rest of: "Glowing Above the Sun: The Tío Pepe Sign"»

If there's one place that symbolizes the quirkiness of Madrid's history for me, it is the Sabatini Gardens next to the Palacio Real.

Of course, it's not the quirkiness that draws hundreds of people here every day - the gardens are beautiful and for anybody who's tired of the city's heat (in summer), or crowds (all year round) it's a perfect place to chill, relax a little bit, read or just people-watch. And did I mention the location? Quite literally in the shadow of the Palacio Real, perhaps Madrid's most famous landmark: it just doesn't get more central than that.

But still, that's not the whole story. The whole story would need to mention a few quirky facts. Here's one, for example: the Sabatini Gardens are named after Italian architect Francesco Sabatini who... had nothing to do with them...

Read the rest of: "Sabatini Gardens: Chilling With the Kings"»

To escape the traffic and the noise of Lavapiés/Embajadores district (south of El Rastro), head to the rooftop of La Casa Encendida. Located on busy Ronda de Valencia, La Casa is actually a hidden oasis of calm.

This free-admission community education center / gallery / multimedia library / performance venue has a wonderful rooftop where you can sit, relax, read, meditate or chat with other visitors – you choose. If you get hungry, there's a café downstairs, not to mention all the other things the center offers.

WHAT: Rooftop relaxation
WHERE: La Casa Encendida (www.lacasaencendida.es) Ronda de Valencia, 2; Madrid 28012.  

Read the rest of: "Rooftop of La Casa Encendida"»

If the above title makes you go "¿La Hora de QUÉ?", you're not alone. Only a short year ago, I myself did not know what "horchata" meant, much less what it tasted like.

As it turns out, it tastes pretty good. If you're in Madrid, dubious, I'll tell you were to go to order a glass that will remove all your doubts...

Read the rest of: "La Hora de Horchata"»

When you get tired of all the "typical" Spanish food, when you want small dishes (but... please, no more tapas!), when you want to try something eclectic yet vaguely Spanish-themed, you might want to consider eating at Bazaar on the southern fringes of Madrid's Chueca.

Read the rest of: "Bazaar in Madrid"»

I've already talked about my abnormal interest in this very important meal and how those morning calories are hard to come by in Madrid. Well, given that nobody here eats much in the morning, you might as well do as the Madrileños do - that is, eat only un poco. But where?...

Read the rest of: "Why Faborit is my Favorite. Reason #1: Breakfast"»

Walking along Paseo del Prado yesterday, I couldn't help but notice all those kiosks and stands filled with books. Bookish types were swarming around them like insects.

So, I browsed a little bit and even though most of the material on display was clearly junk, I had to remind myself more than once about airline weight restrictions - otherwise, I would already have in my possession various 2€ encyclopedias and sub--10€ hard-cover editions of literary classics published in the 70's.

I couldn't figure out the exact dates for this event, but it looks like the stalls will be there for at least a few more weeks.

Don't get me wrong - I love Spanish food. I adore it. I can't get enough of all that cocido, jamón serrano, chorizo and tortilla española, so whenever I am in Madrid I basically eat in advance. Madrid is a city where I can go to a sketchy diner, sit on a bar stool at the counter pretending to be a visiting American, take out a French novel from my pocket... and still get a hearty, delicious meal - for less than 10 euros!

But that doesn't help me solve the problem I encounter almost every morning. I'll tell you what does. Read on...

Read the rest of: "VIPS: Breakfast in Madrid"»

To have a coffee in a literary setting that's oozing atmosphere and tradition in Madrid requires almost no effort.

Just walk to Pasillo de Recoletos, look for the address plaque that says "21" and open the door to Café Gijón.

Read the rest of: "Café Gijón"»