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Cinque Terre

Posted by Alban in Italy on 21/Nov/2007
Cinque Terre - Wall Cinque Terre is situated in the Ligurian coast and without exaggeration, it's one of the most beautiful places I've seen in Italy. What's more, people are nice, the food is good and the scenery is fantastic.

As the name implies, Cinque Terre is a jigsaw puzzle of a region whose pieces are: Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola, Corniglia and Riomaggiore with Levanto squeezing in.

Once you get there (by train only - at least that's what I'd recommend), you can either walk from village to village (not at night or during/after a heavy rain, though - landslides are a major risk in the area), or take the boat (there's only one motorboat that circulates between villages because the area is a National Park and part a of protected habitat from UNESCO and no motor powered boats are allowed to roam around) or, if none of the above appeals to you, hope abord a local train which only takes a couple minutes between the villages. Perhaps you'll find it interesting that dogs are allowed on the train.

Pesto alla Genovese

Ingredients:
  • Basil, 2 bunches
  • Pine nuts, a handful
  • Garlic, 1 clove
  • Salt, 1 teaspoonful
  • Parmesan cheese, 50 gr.
  • Extra-virgin olive oil, 3 tablespoons
  • Butter, a teaspoon
Description:
  • servings: 4
  • calories: medium
  • category: sauces
  • cost: low
Preparation

Remove the leaves of the basil from the twigs and wash them in cold water. Crush the pine nuts, garlic and salt in a mortar then add the oil until you have the density you prefer.Lastly add the grated Parmesan cheese and mix well.Sometimes people ad a couple of boiled small potatoes and green beans which makes for a full meal.

Before seasoning the pasta, put a knob of butter on the plate followed by the pesto and let it warm over the pot where the pasta is boiling nicely. Then mix in the pasta well and serve hot.To finish try the SciachetrĂ  ,a very nice sweet local wine.
The five villages are very small and, in a sense, very fragile places: the landslides coupled with corrosion always threaten to obliterate the villages by literally making them crumble and fall into the Mediterranean.

The inhabitants of Cinque Terre are careful not to over-promote their region: in essence, they are trying not to attract too many tourists. First of all, because the lodging facilities are limited and second of all, because the locals are trying to keep the place as "pristine" as possible. Their strategy seems to be working and the fact that the place can only be reached by train gives it that much sought-after feeling of remoteness (so, don't expect nightclubs or disco bars!)

The food is delicious and mainly local (think fresh fish caught daily), so pretty much anywhere you go to eat it's going to be good. Try the mixed fish fry or the delicious white anchovies and don't forget to drink local wine which is quiet decent. And, of course, eat the pesto, which is the flagship of Liguria.

For the hikes you have to buy a pass which includes the train commute for the day. Usually you can buy this pass at the train station. Don't forget to write your name on the pass. Tickets are valid for 24 hours but in actuality they expire at midnight.

If you can go with someone who speaks the language it'll be easier to find a place to stay. Otherwise, people do speak a little English, although it's always better to understand what's going on as Italians tend to be a little "creative" with lodging.

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