Glühwein in the Crisp Air

Winter travel is popular for people looking to escape winter, or for those in search of a ski resort, but rarely do people travel to winter for the sake of winter itself. Coats, boots, scarves and mitts are cumbersome to carry – another suitcase in and of themselves. Besides the practical advantages of off-season prices and less tourists to contend with, what could be interesting about travelling in winter, other than sport, that couldn't be done with less baggage in another season?

Glühwein, mulled wine. Now, does it sound more interesting?

Photo courtesy of wetwater In Austria winter is cold, for sure, but not unbearable. The ground is covered in squeaky snow and the sky is blue, though sometimes also grey. Churches are chilly, but your coat will counter your breath hanging in the air. A walk around Salzburg or Vienna to get a feel for the city is brisker than a meander in spring, but your lungs are alive with the crisp air. And let's face it, dusted with snow or not, the Austro-Hungarian Empire is just plain majestic – even more so, I would say, with the Belvedere Palace shining out of its blanket of snow. So, what is my point? My point is that you can 'do' all the usual siteseeing and appreciate it as much as you would in any other season, and for a lower price, but you can only stop for a glass or two of Glühwein in the town square (platz) in winter.

Kiosks that sell Glühwein are in various squares throughout the city often at the Christmas markets and, if not there, the next platz over. You can stop in the afternoon to recharge or you can sip it in the evening along with any number of locals. At the end of a long day, the savoury taste of cinnamon and cloves in red wine (and occasionally white) really does warm you up and put a smile on your face...while the snow at night glitters and captures the imagination…

If you can stay over Sylvesterabend, the Eve of Saint Sylvester (New Year's Eve), you'll have to put down your glass to waltz in the New Year. At midnight on December 31st, the Austrian tradition is to welcome the New Year with a waltz: indoors or outdoors, music plays. Believe me, there's something very magical about being bundled up in the night air, talking through frosted breath under the heat lamps, sipping hot wine and, on the stroke of midnight, having the whole square come alive with waltzing figures.

If you can do it, you should.

Posted by Andrea in Austria on 16/Nov/2007

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